Graham, Misha, Pat, Joe, Bev, Danny, Geoff, Leigh, Cam, Richard, Liz, Margaret
The trip lived up to its name, a truly epic kayak to the cold and windy northern isles of Orkney while
Glasgow basked in the sun. Several days were 30k, most capsized at some point testing their rolling
ability or the team’s rescue skills from dodgy rocks and headlands, and day 1 winds were Force 5,
gusting 6! Had I realized beforehand….!!?
On Friday 26 May, nine of the group gathered at Thurso campsite. Plan A was going ahead, plans B
(Shetland), C (other) had been cancelled. We were glad of Pat’s organizational skills with campsite
spaces booked and just what we needed, a pattern that was to continue for the rest of the trip.
Sat 27 th
It was a windy, rough crossing from Scrabster to Stromness on the large Northlink ferry. Surely we
won’t be kayaking today was my thought. Little did I know. In Stromness we went to look at the
sea, westerly, force 5, gusting 6. Graham pointed out that we were in Scapa flow, what’s the
problem? You are not going to get blown out to sea. After a little discussion it was agreed to start
from Houton and paddle to Scapa. Conditions seemed fierce to me but Graham started by ensuring
we could all paddle up into the wind, turn, paddle across wind and then back. This exercise certainly
shifts your attention from the conditions, to what you can actually do in them. So, we set off with a
strong following wind and learned to manage the conditions. Some enjoyed them from the word go,
surfing the waves. I found that it did set me up for the week, learning to control the kayak in those
conditions, and wind strengths were never quite as daunting. We passed great stratified sandstone
cliffs, reds and yellows with green mosses and grasses looking particularly good when the sun came
out. The Norse names show what an historical place we had reached. The more comprehensible
names were not always so helpful, a point known as The Lash fortunately turned out to be more
benign than it sounded. The helpful team work for the landing in Scapa Bay was a reassuring finish
to the day. It was a great introduction to a fascinating area, and the friendly, experienced and
supportive team I was kayaking with.
Sun 28th
Liz and Richard joined us at Kirkwall campsite on the NE edge of the town, another of Pat’s major
negotiating successes, 11 tents on 2 sites. Meanwhile cars were shuttled to Heatherhouse, where
we eventually managed to raise an obliging local Geordie for permission. We launched from the
campsite, the westerly had subsided to force 4 and was to stay much like that for the week. We
headed round Car Ness, the head of Work, with lunch stop and then across Inganess Bay. The canny
use of wind and tide was demonstrated as we made quick progress across the mouth of the bay.
Sea birds, many seals and the occasional geo gave us a taste of things to come. Return to Kirkwall
included an impressive 4 kayaks on top of Joe’s car to save an extra shuttle. Thank you, Joe.
Mon 29
On Monday morning we headed to the Sands of Evie, NW of Kirkwall and set off on expedition with
loaded kayaks. Now in formation, with Bev and Joe leading, Geoff and Pat bringing up the rear and
the more experienced folk looking after those less so, thank you all. We crossed Eynhallow Sound,
to then follow the southern shore of Rousay and cross SE to Wyre. We landed by the pier for lunch,
a visit to the heritage centre, with interesting exhibition, help yourself facilities and honesty box.
Cubbie Roe’s castle, a former viking fort is in a prime setting overlooking Gairsay sound. We then
headed to the southern tip of Egilsay, rounded it and up the east coast – a rocky coast line. Mae
Banks was our tussocky campsite but it was a lovely setting and we had the first of our great beach
campfires, thanks to Danny.
Tue 30
We headed NE from Egilsay to Faray, following its west coast, then through the Weatherness Sound
to the SE coast of Westray our main destination. Here the dramatic coastline of sea cliffs, rock
stacks and geos started, by Weather Ness and Stanger Head. Fortunately there was a bay we could
stop at for lunch at Rack Wick, which hosted a collection of sea scoured rusting old machinery, I felt
at home.. We continued along this dramatic coast, the braver folk getting as close to the cliffs and
entering the caves when they could. The sea birds, guillemots, razorbills and some puffins were all
around. We followed the coast to Pierowall, and a very friendly campsite. Musicians from Orkney
folk festival were also camped there and provided a musical night for those who stayed up. What
stamina these dckc folk have!
Wednesday 31
From Pierowall, we set off on a day trip, anticlockwise round Papa Westray. We landed on Holm of
Papa and visited the impressive 5000 years old, neolithic chambered cairn. You can climb down into
it and explore the 30 m long burial chamber with 12 cells off to the sides. Heading north and west
round Mull Head we passed dramatic cliffs, rock arches, caves and geos. We landed on the west
coast to visit the Knap of Howar, a mini skara brae, and a nearby museum to island life at Holland
farm.
Thurs 1
The day dawned sunny and we were 12 for the morning with Misha arrived and Bev about to leave
at lunch time. It was still windy and all was carefully timed to round Noup Head at ‘slack’. From
Pierowall, we now divided into two smaller groups led by Graham and Misha, and headed north and
west round Bow Head. What a dramatic place! Fantastic cliffs, stacks, rock arches and caves. Those
who could, braved the swell and waves to explore where possible. It was amazing, even to observe
from a safer distance, particularly after a triple capsize involving the rescuers as well as the rescuee.
The rescuers rolled up expertly to carry on with the rescue! So many seabirds too. We stopped for a
long lunch break at Bay of Noup, went back into Pierowall to visit Noltland castle and enjoy coffee
and cake in Pierowall while waiting for the tide to turn, thank you Bev.
We set off round Noup Head in (what felt like) big seas. What a dramatic headland, massive cliffs,
stacks and caves. The caves were spectacular and difficult to enter, though some intrepid did. Lots
of swell, clapotis and the (probably) inevitable capsize on my part! Expertly rescued by Misha and
Geoff. Then south, past more spectacular cliffs, and caves and down the west coast to Mae Sand.
Another beautiful campsite with campfire that evening.
Fri 2nd
Another sunny if chilly morning as we headed south from Mae Sand, Westray, on an open crossing
to Rousay landing at Nousty Sand. The winds had subsided, sun was shining and as we headed NW
to round Sacquoy Head and down the west coast of impressive rock arches, dramatic cliffs and
caves. We had planned some time ashore on Rousay before crossing to Eynhallow to avoid the fast
tidal flow. Efforts were made to land on seaweed and rocky slabs, leaving the boats tied up in the
care of Pat and Leigh (noble volunteers!), but then it became clear the tide had already turned and
we had to get going. Massive ferry glide was achieved across to Eynhallow, after a practice run (!).
The current was strong, water was boiling up, swinging the nose of the kayak in either direction
away from our compass bearings. It was a great relief to reach the island and our camp for the night.
Eynhallow has the ruins of a 12 th century church, possibly part of a monastery but is also believed to
have been the summer residence of the shape-shifting mer-people, the Finfolk. We just saw and
heard birds including gulls, snipe, oyster catchers and bonxies. Campfire was a step up that night,
Danny has indeed mastered the art!
Sat 3rd
We were back to 2 groups for our final day round Costa and Brough Heads on our way to finish at
Skara Brae. The car drivers + Graham left first for Sands of Evie, car shuttle to Skara Brae, then to
paddle from Sands of Evie via Brough Head to Skara Brae. Massive cliffs, dramatic, enormous caves,
sea stacks and sea birds abounded. Yet another dramatic coastline. Although the sea was a bit
calmer, surprising waves suddenly appeared and a massive (!?) one at Costa Head was calmly
avoided by Graham but did for me. Again, an efficient rescue, thank you. Lunch was in Birsay Bay
and then the final stretch past even more geos on the way to Bay of Skaill and final landing. Skara
Brae was visited by those who didn’t need to shuttle the cars, thanks all.
Our final night in Stromness was suitably action packed as an appropriate ending to an exhilarating,
action packed week.
View all the photos at : SMUGMUG
You must be logged in to post a comment.