A group of 6 new and excited kayak campers( Eleni, Ian ,Harriet ,Kathryn, Wojtec and me ) led by  Pat with Bev who kept an eye on ever changing weather forecast were delighted when Pat gave the all clear on Thursday night and it was Lismore here we come!

Departure

Day 1
We left from the lay-by opposite Shuna Island at 10 am after perfect team work getting boats down to the beach and packed. The weather was supposed to be a gentle breeze and drizzle . No breeze no drizzle , so a very calm start to our adventure.
We headed SW from Shuna guided by Pat who was keeping an eye on tides and flows across to the NE of Lismore though the little islands where we saw seals and pups galore, and started our main journey down Lismore’s western coast. The plan and route had already been described to us , we knew there would be plenty of opportunities for sightseeing and comfort breaks  , so a pretty chilled paddle took us to our first stop at Castle Coeffin a 13th century clan site built on a Viking fortress . Lunch was briefly interrupted by rain , then off again to our next stop at An Sailean, where we explored the old lime kilns and abandoned cottages ,then guided by Pat and Bev ,some of us – me especially- practicing better ways of getting back into our kayaks, with great wisdom and experience shared .

Day 1 Lunch

Our very calm journey continued with the  next phase getting us safely to the iconic Stevenson built Lismore  Lighthouse on beautiful and uninhabited Eilean Musdile.
A narrow slipway was navigated safely and kayaks were methodically carried well above the tide line  making for extremely convenient (easy peasy) unloading .
We camped in the walled wild flower and grass meadow , O the joy of wonderful soft  cushioning , and since this was near the solstice we were able to sit round a beach campfire on a warm balmy evening with no real need for head torches. We watched the last Mull ferry go by and the only sounds at night were gull and oyster catcher calls ….until the 6.30 am ferry to Tiree passed.

All good campsites have a drying line.

Day 2
Sunday morning was sunny and warm , a real treat having breakfast outdoors with just the sound of birds and …..no midges , ….well not many . Sunscreen was more important that morning.
Together and well guided by Pat and Bev we got our boats packed and 2 by 2 got into the water. We knew we were heading to a small tidal flow that Pat had already explained to us and told us how we’d navigate it ,so we hugged the shoreline of Eilean Musdile in single file and then we followed the flow and let it take us round a little bit of shoreline and headed further out west  to avoid choppier water and then headed straight to the south western  tip of Lismore . Pat and Bev checked in with us throughout to check how we felt and guided us if  needed. Heading back up on the western shoreline of Lismore  other wildlife  was spotted including otter, seals and buzzards . The porpoises and dolphins were hiding that day. Another gentle paddle took us to Achnacroich where we stopped for lunch .
Final stretch was up to the north western tip of Lismore where it  was agreed  that after waiting for the small Port Appin ferry to pass we’d head across to Castle Stalker beyond Linn Island. A gentle paddle across and a circumnavigation of Castle Stalker ( the tide was just right for us ) and back up past The Knap to Shuna Sound and cars .

Everyone say cheese!

As someone who gave up on the idea of camping years ago , I’m sure I speak for our group in  encouraging anyone new to the idea of kayak camping to sign up when the next opportunity comes round.
The joy and privilege of getting to places few people can, in wonderful company with skilled and professional guidance and encouragement from committed leaders , it’s an absolutely  wonderful experience .

June Findlater