AKA the Shetland Trip Revised
Shetland was the trip that we just couldn’t pull off this year. We had cancelled in June as the winds were consistently F5 and above and we cancelled again in September with a similar weather picture. Misha and Alan were moving on with Plan B before we got together ahead of departure and our best window was West Coast near Skye and fingers crossed out to the the Small Isles. By then, we were grateful to be getting away at all. We all signed up and swallowed hard our disappointment. Bev, Danny, Graham, Joe, Leigh and I were the rest of the crew. We met at the campsite at Ardleve on Loch Alsh in the evening prior to the launch, half of us coming direct from work, arriving late that night.
Day 1 Kyleakin to Eilean a’Mhuineil, Loch Hourn 33km
We broke camp in the morning and regrouped on the shore at Kyleakin. A posse of drivers set off to Armadale and returned in a pre-arranged taxi (no public transport) to launch with the Skye bridge behind us and Kyle Rhea ahead. Our first landing was only a couple of kilometres round into Loch na Beiste to the site of the hermit’s camp. Known as the Leopard Man, he had left several years earlier but the dwelling remains as a remarkable testament to his perseverance in what must at times have been a hostile environment. The sun was shining, and winds were light as we rounded into the Kyles travelling with tidal assistance (up to 18 kmph, oh joy!) to lunch at Glenelg Bay. It took resilience and strength of character to avoid the pub and paddle on, stopping at the lovely Sandaig Islands before rounding into Loch Hourn where we pitched for the night on the south shore just short of Barrisdale at Eilean a’Mhuineil– a beautiful sandy out crop. There is no camp without fire and The Firemaster, Danny did us proud with what little wood we could find and a cellar of coal that we brought with us.
Day 2 Eilean a’Mhuineil to Inverie 33km
We adapted the original plan to paddle the full length of Loch Hourn yesterday, because of strengthening westerly wind forecast today and we were not disappointed. We paddled into a F4 as we travelled up Loch Hourn and rounded Knoydart into a choppier sea state. The coastline was peppered with ruins and cottages remote from the road network but as accessible by sea kayak as any other coastal stretch. We came ashore for lunch just north of Inverguseran, the sun was holding out and seals were bobbing in the bay. Onwards, as we turned the SW corner of Knoydart, we were rewarded with the wind behind us and Inverie in sight. On arrival, Misha and Joe checked out the camping options at the local pub – they may have checked out opening times too… The campsite was a kilometre and half south of the village and to our dismay, the receding tide took us further and further away from a landing site within reasonable distance of camp. So, it was a great relief to find that we could paddle most of the way up the river and disembark at the side entrance. The walk to the pub was worth the effort, glasses were raised and the craik was good. Danny was the man of the night as he wiped the competition off the pool table and left us all with our jaws hitting the floor. The walk home was…. more of a challenge for some.
Day 3 Inverie to Sourlies, Loch Ness 18km
We set off at a pace down Loch Nevis with the wind mainly behind us. The view down the loch was dramatic with mountains rising as a backdrop to the loch’s end. We had an early stop at Tarbert and threatened Leigh with a portage over to Loch Morar – but she was digging in her heels! We spent time chatting to the local caretaker and craftsman who had renovated the church (now a bunk house) and several of the cottages along the shores of Tarbet bay and the Kyles and learned about a very different life. Pulling out of Tarbet we felt the effects of the strong westerly which diminished as we made progress down the loch. Through Kylesknoydart we were entertained by a pair of otters apparently oblivious of us, finally reaching the head of the loch in the later afternoon sunshine. Once more the tide was ebbing so fast from the shallow bay that we were lucky to land only a hundred metres or so from the shoreline – within minutes it was well behind us. Sourlies bothy provided a focus for us and the couple of walkers who joined us that night. It was magical – the deer were feeding less than 50 metres away and the sun set over the Kyles. It was time to light the fire in the bothy and string up the screen for a cinema evening. Misha took no responsibility for the film he projected – the subtitled Norwegian cult horror film ‘Troll Hunter’ left us all speechless!
Day 4 Sourlies to Mallaig 23km
We set off early as the forecast suggested worsening westerly wind as the day progressed – up to the Kyles we were protected, thereafter hugging the coast afforded some shelter. We passed Moby, the life-size whale at Ardintigh outdoor centre and a number of fish farms which left us all wondering about the meaning of ‘Responsibly Sourced’. As we reached the mouth of the loch, we took a breather by Sgeirr a’ Ghaill before rounding the peninsula and heading into the wind for the last leg to Mallaig. It was arduous at times, but we worked well as a team and stayed in close proximity. We came ashore in the harbour by a slipway, we were all grateful for Misha’s local knowledge – the alternative was very rocky. The drivers returned to Armadale by ferry to retrieve the vehicles and on their return, we rewarded ourselves with Mallaig’s best Fish and Chips. The plan was forming to head for Canna for the last 2 days of weather window – so we set up camp in Kinloid Campsite aiming to get up early for the ferry.
Day 5 Circumnavigation of Canna 20km
We were on the jetty by 0720, kayaks packed and for the most part, on trolleys and still the coffee shops in Mallaig were not open. The negotiating team, Danny and Leigh, were sent to secure tickets for the return journey – they are good, very good. The ferry was late to leave but we were accompanied by dolphins and had an amazing close up of a Minke whale. Danny arranged for the trolleys to remain on the ferry due to pick us up from Rum the following day. The circumnavigation of Canna was fantastic, and conditions were calm. The rock formations, castle, forts, caves, stacks and beaches were enthralling – the views extended over to the other small isles, to Skye and to the Outer Hebrides. Graham led a party to forage for wood on a beach close to camp and we loaded up the kayaks – we also seemed to acquire a giant pea from among the flotsam of buoys. We camped on Sanday, just south the bridge and out of sight. Until that is, we had the best bonfire of the trip – it’s what memories are made of.
Day 6 Sanday to Kinloch, Rum 23km
The last day’s paddling and we set off under the bridge between Sanday and Canna and across a 4 km stretch to Guirdil Bay on Rum. I think we were all surprised that this coastline had so much to offer – rock hoping, arches, beautiful bays, and caves. Lunch on a steeply shelved beach of pebbles near Rubha na Moine and a final leg to Kinloch pier. We were off the water, kit sorted in goodly time for the ferry when we were hit by the unexpected. The pier master insisted that the smaller Shearwater passenger ferry scheduled that day could not take the kayaks – next freight ferry was in 2 days’ time. It seemed we were caught in an island warp, the crack negotiating team had no traction. Leaving the kayak trolleys on the ferry no longer seemed such a good idea. We were adjusting to our change in fortune when the news came through that the freight ferry was on its way to collect us. We were jubilant when it hove into view just to pick us up – though in truth, I was getting used to the idea of a few more days on Rum…. And finally, the icing on the cake, we were escorted back to Mallaig by a pod of over 30 dolphins skimming, jumping and turning alongside the ferry. As with so many times on this trip, we again felt privileged to be here.
We were all so grateful for the planning that Misha and Alan put into the trip, the guidance and assurance that Graham provided with such good humour, for Joe’s steadfastness and looking out for us all, Bev for keeping us right and on track, Leigh for her laughter and sense of fun, Danny, our firemaster and pool champion and me for writing the trip report – ha ha! We were a good team; it was great to be paddling together.
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