Summer Isles – Trip Report

By Paul Gardener

Thanks to both Bev (for organizing) and the Queen (for conveniently having a 4-day jubilee holiday), 11 members of the club had a trip to remember around the Summer Isles.  A lot of caves, varying sea states around the cliffs and rocky shores, and the weather just kept getting better…

On the Thursday afternoon, we left the beach just north of Achiltibuie and crossed to Tanera Mor.  There was no obvious campsite to aim for, so we traversed around the south of the island and then west across to Tanera Beg, looking in at possible beaches.  All looked bouldery and slippy.  Eventually after going round Tanera Beg we found an adequate landing spot on Eilean Fada Mor, where the boats with some difficulty could be unloaded and lifted up to safety.  Tidal range was close to maximum, and conveniently the morning high tide was around 10 am, resulting in civilized start times on all days.  On Eilean Fada Mor there was good camping, nicely exposed to both a strong breeze to keep the midges down, and to a glorious sunset.  Before sunset however, the portable firepit (yes, such a thing exists) was assembled and burning nicely with the kindling and charcoal brought by several people.  We could also see Ossi, or at least his float, as he carried out his evening snorkel spear-fishing patrol.  Total paddling distance about 12 km, no fish.

The wind on Friday morning was lower than forecast, so we could stick to Bev and Misha’s Plan A.  In two groups, we headed south from Eilean Fada Mor to Eilean Dubh, and then to lunch on a narrow boulder and gravel bar between Carn Iar and Carn Deas, then west to camp on Eilean a Cleireach/Priest Island.  We were uncertain about landing and camping spots, as the whole island is an RSPB bird sanctuary, with notices warning of risks to ground-nesting birds, especially storm petrels.  However the RSPB seemed most concerned about the west coast of the island, so we landed at a small beach on the east side and camped directly above it.  Again, difficult boat lifting and shifting on a boulder beach.  Most of the party then paddled round the island, finding and exploring several caves of varying degrees of narrowness, darkness and lumpiness.  We also found a seal bobbing nose up in the water, and apparently deeply asleep or otherwise oblivious to our presence, though we could have touched it.  Total distance about 14 km; zero fish speared.  No fire tonight, due to late dinner and a few midges, and concern for storm petrels.

On Saturday, driven by the promise of a sandy beach at the end of the day, we headed almost due north to Glas-leac Beag and Mor, and round Eilean Mullagrach to Isle Ristol.  And it turned out to be a perfect beach, bathed in sunshine, with perfect machair grass above the beach for camping.  We were there by early afternoon, so a few got back on the water to circumnavigate the island, but most stayed on shore to explore and enjoy the sun.  In the evening we had a fire on the beach, and Ossi speared four pollock and a wrasse, which were then perfectly grilled on the fire.  Total distance about 14 km.

Sunday was another leisurely start then a short paddle back to Achiltibuie, load up and off in time to meet at the Ceilidh Place in Ullapool for lunch.  Thanks a lot to Bev, Misha, Leigh and Joe for organizing and co-leading, to Ossi for the fish, and to all those who carried coal, kindling and the fire pit.