Lismore Weekend Trip Report

Lismore, Saturday 6th – Sunday 7th September, 2014

Rose, Andy, Michael, Misha, Graham, Ian, Allan & Colin met at the long lay-by off the A828 at Appin, across from the Island of Shuna,. Port Appin, although closer to Lismore, was too busy for parking.

Weather forecasts had been for force 3 winds from the north-west both days, with bright weather each day but the very odd shower on the Saturday.

The plan for this Grade B trip was to circumnavigate Lismore, with a wild camp on the Saturday night. We would circumnavigate the island in an anti-clockwise direction, paddling down the west coast of the island on the Saturday, camping at the south of the island near the lighthouse, then paddling back on the Sunday up the east coast. By doing this we would be able to pass through the tidal channels at Bernera Island and Rubha Fiart, at high water and, most importantly in the case of Rubha Fiart, at slack water. The wild camp would be at Port An Rubha..

On the Sunday, we would get a gentle push northwards on the flood tide with the channel at Port Appin being the only tidal channel to navigate and it would be with us.

We set off into the Sound of Shuna paddling south in flat calm conditions. As we cleared Shuna, looking west it was hard to tell where the sea ended and the sky began in the grey murky conditions, the sea being glass flat.

As we approached the north-western islands off Lismore we spotted two large birds of prey on one of the islands. The larger one took off, leaving the smaller one sitting on the island wondering who these strange characters were. We were able to get reasonably close without disturbing it and take pictures before it decided it didn’t like the look of us and also took off. A debate took place for a while on what type of bird it was. Michael thought it was someone’s escaped pet budgie, the rest of us weren’t quite so sure about that. We eventually persuaded Bill Oddie that it was actually a pair of Sea Eagles (mother and adolescent chick).

Everywhere the chick landed, was on the route we were taking so it probably assumed we were stalking it, or trying to take it back to its owner.

The first stop of the day was at Castle Coeffin. While we were there we were joined by members of the Mallaig Canoe Club, who were doing an identical trip to ourselves. They had also noticed how the wind seemed to be more westerly to south-westerly than the forecast north-westerly.

We left them in peace and set off again. The wind had picked up a bit more now and made the paddle south more interesting. At some points we where getting some clapotis. It was also evident that the sea floor was very shallow in places, adding to the conditions. We noticed two paddlers from a separate group again and had passed us at our first stop, had pulled in.

To ensure we made it through the gap at Bernera at high enough water, and also more importantly reach the south of Lismore at slack water, we pulled in for another short break. Landing spots on this west coast can be few and far between so we stopped at Achadun Bay, which is just before you pass through Bernera. This was a sheltered spot and a short walk lets you see not only if there is enough water between Lismore and Bernera, but also the conditions at the south of Lismore.

As we waited, first the two paddler group passed, then the 5 strong group from Mallaig also appeared. They sat out in the water for a short while before heading on towards Bernera.

When we moved on, the next stop would be the camp spot at the south. The channel at Bernera had plenty of water and was nice and relaxing as the island provided shelter from the wind. As we moved further south, the wind and sea was gradually picking up. On the final two kilometre approach to the south of the island the waves were becoming steeper and more challenging. Allied with some clapotis and also the wake from the passing Oban to Mull ferry, I wish I’d had another weetabix!!

A turn directly into the waves for a time (they had been slightly forward of beam), then turn downwind for a nice push into the channel between the south of Lismore and Eilean Musdile, where the water was calm and slack.

The camp spot at Port An Rubha was flat and had enough room for our tents, plus good views south out to Mull, the Firth of Lorne and beyond. It didn’t take long for the tide to turn and the flow between the islands is pretty rapid.

While the boats were being unloaded and tents being put up it transpired that Misha had forgotten his tent poles and was bunking in with Michael. It’s surprising how common this is. From our small group, at least three of us had done this in the space of the previous year on kayak camping trips.

When the tents were erected and we were getting changed out of our kayak clothes, Misha unveiled probably the most disturbing piece of clothing many of us have ever seen (and would ever want to)…..his luminous green string vest!

At present there are no photos of this war crime, most of use were too shocked to get a camera. If one emerges, it will be published, but with an age restriction.

Things took an even more disturbing turn when we saw Michael and Misha hovering around their tent. Michael was sporting a rubber looking, all black, 2-piece Reed ChillCheater number…..looking quite the gimp.

Seeing them side by side sharing the same tent, they looked like two festival goers at a Village People concert. It will take many, many years of therapy to clear that mental scarring.

The campsite is know an being pretty poor for firewood but Ian had brought along a big back of cut up hardwood. Michael had also spotted a washed up tree on the shore from the channel. This made for a good campfire after an initial but short lived downpour. The lighting ceremony was performed by Ian who it seems can start a fire anywhere. This kept us warm and stinking of smoke while we drank and told stories, in between Rose spotting small ember burns in here down jacket!

The kayaking is good and the scenery is good,…. that’s a given. But more importantly, so was the company. That’s what these trips are all about.

Sunday morning, the wind seemed to be more from the predicted north-west. If it stayed this way we would get some shelter on the northbound paddle up the east coast.

Leaving the campsite, nearing the end of the ebb tide, we turned northward. Michael started a game of kayak tig with poor Rose getting picked on most, although most of us had turns.. I had my sail with me but the wind direction and gustiness of it meant I hadn’t raised it yet. Whilst trying to do this at one point, Allan (who was het) seized on my lapse in concentration while I was fiddling with the sail to T-bone me just as I got the sail up. The sail cord then released dumping the sail in the water for my final indignity. And yes, I did hear you all laughing behind me.

We stopped at the Oban to Lismore ferry terminal at Achnacroish for a break. Misha was chatting to the couple who we had been leap-frogging since yesterday. They had camped overnight on the island with the lighthouse directly opposite our spot. They didn’t mention anything about a string vest but were giving Misha some wary looks and seemed to be in a hurry to get away.

After this break it was the final push homeward. We followed the contour of the island until we reach the channel at Port Appin. The flood tide was now pretty much at full flow with the wind against it. Although there were some defined eddy lines the water wasn’t turbulent.

Passing the islands such as Inn Island to the east to get some shelter, we crossed the channel towards the Sound of Shuna, passing Castle Stalker, then on to the lay-by where we packed up, said our farewell’s and faced the journey home.

Saturday – 23.6km.
Sunday – 21.3 km