Leader – Janice G – Report – David L
This is a short report, for a short paddle on what is often termed ‘Scotland’s only lake’. It’s located approximately 28 miles from the Miller Street lockup. What made this paddle shorter than usual was neither the experience or the enthusiasm of the group of 15. All had shown fortitude in reaching the lakeside launching point by driving through menacing cloud cover in the early evening and, later, torrential downpours. Rain strong enough so roads were in spate and to upset car GPS directions. But any set back on the road was met by the determination required to paddle into a Force Eight gale, which the weather gods decided not inflict on us. Thus, delayed a little in getting on the water but not at all dismayed, the party set off with a light breeze under skies with slowly moving clouds in changing shades of grey: but no rain!
Menteith, often the ‘only Lake’ in Scotland, isn’t large (2.4 k/1.5m long; 1.6k/1m wide) but its setting beside the Highland Fault line and near Aberfoyle, is serene and beautiful rather grand and remote. It is a realm of era evolving landscapes, human habitations dating to post glacial time. When Romans visited they even built a fort to west of the lake. It has two islands of any size – the larger one, Inchmahome hosts the ruins of an Augustinian Priory whilst the nearby Inchtalla held the local Earl’s castle.
It is the Augustinian Priory, established in 1238 with the help of the lord on Inchtalla, a priory of the religious cannons that is a main attraction. I won’t dwell on its history – but the ruins are impressive, in particular the high size and condition or the church for such a small island. What made it special was the extent of remains of the living quarters, storehouses which made up the community that caught the attention of many in the group. We explored the island without coming at ‘opening time’ when visitors arrive by boat and purchase histories and tartan at the gift shop (Historic Environment Scotland).
Our paddling and sightseeing was pleasurable and peaceful in the gentle evening light. The group paddled round Inchmahome and Inchtalla before crossing across the ‘only Lake’ to our landing spot. This became less easy to distinguish in the gathering gloom, but morale was high as we loaded our kayaks for homeward drives.
What about the ‘only Lake’ Menteith claim? Wikipedia holds that it is only natural body of water. On the other hand Nature Scotland posits:
… for all those silently screaming “one, the answer is one!” the Lake of Menteith is not the only lake in Scotland. There are at least six other “lakes” listed on the Standing Waters Database, including Lake Superior in southern Scotland.
By my reckoning Lake Superior is tiny and probably a reservoir. Which got me thinking … perhaps that is a challenge …. paddle all the Lakes in the country and find out if the Lake of Menteith is indeed singular!
On the other hand we can dream up stories about Robert the Bruce or Mary Queen of Scots or Robert Cunninghame Graham who all visited Inchmahome, as well as the local people and the 300 year inhabitation of the holy men. History, folklore and fantasy!
Thanks to all fellow paddlers who made this an enjoyable and reflective trip for me – and I’m sure they will agree they enjoyed it too. Special thanks to Janice for organisation and KitKats.